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800.549.3832
"I Want to Choose a
Wine Cooling System"
The most cost-effective, straightforward,
approach to a wine cellar environment control is a
"through-wall" system. Installation costs are nominal ... the
process is essentially idiot-proof, speaking from personal
experience. For enclosures up to 2,000 cubic feet (8,000
BTU's), under appropriate conditions, this configuration is the most
logical starting point for consideration.
Breezaire and Whisperkool are industry
standards - neither does more or less than the other in maintaining
cellar conditions. Both are subject to our extended
warranties. Visit the "Tech Specs" page for
more specifics on installation and technical data.
'Though an entirely different animal, picture
a window unit air conditioner .... the sizing of the equipment is
generally based on the volume (cubic footage) of the
area. Additionally, the exhaust (and fresh air
intake) should have "wide open" access to a well,
ventilated area outside the cellar that is at least 2.5 - 3
times the size of the cellar. This is determined by measuring
the width, depth and height.
The environment from which the machine will
draw fresh air and into which it will dump the warm air is assumed
to not "routinely and consistently" exceed ~ 80 - 85
degrees. 3 hours tomorrow afternoon or one day next week @ 88
degrees, is no big deal, but "routinely and consistently" is the
operative phrase. The equipment is designed to maintain a ~ 25
- 30 degree differential (delta) between the fresh air supply and
the cellar temperature.
Temporary, gradual changes in air temperature
will have no direct impact on the wine's temperature. The
thermal mass of the liquid will change 8 - 10 times more slowly than
that of the air. 'Kinda like a swimming pool in August - it can
be 100 degrees outside, but if you jump into the water, the water is
still cool. We used to use the analogy of putting a pan of
water on the stove and turning on the burner ... if you put your
finger into the pan, nothing happens for several minutes. If
you remove the pan and hold your hand directly over the
burner, you will realize how volatile the air really is.
(Due to an unfortunate incident in Missouri, we no longer
use that analogy on the advice of our lawyers.)
To beat the point to death, every time you
open the cellar door, the outside air will, essentially immediately,
cause a rise in your interior temperature. Attempts at
micro-managing Mother Nature are a waste of time. Cool air
sinks and warm air rises - there will always be a variations in air
temperature. Otherwise, the compressor would never turn on or
ever turn off. Short of a chamber at the NASA facility, we'll
always have nominal, inconsequential, changes in the cellar
environment. If the wine doesn't care, neither should
you.
OK, sticking with the "through-wall" approach
... while not highly recommended, within nominal limits, equipment
can be "upsized" to address higher temperatures. You can't
expect results by oversizing a unit to accommodate construction
deficiencies, but from practical experience - adding BTU's can deal
with periodic spikes in ambient temperatures. Manufacturers do
not recommend such an approach and they are certainly
experts. But, as a matter of practice, "heavy duty
cooling" options are offered by cabinet makers and we have any
number of projects where slightly larger capacities function
effectively in slightly more hostile environments.
Certainly there's a trade-off ... ideal,
appropriately designed, machines that may cost a few thousand
dollars more than a "through-wall" system, will provide consistency
within narrower limits. But in no case can "through-wall"
equipment be "ducted," "vented, "diverted" or retro-fitted.
The air exchanges have to be segregated and the exhaust will not
overcome the static pressure (inertia of the still air).
No "what if's," "but I live in ...," "my contractor says ...," or
"my brother-in-law did it." Air exchange must be horizontal
and unencumbered.
While there is no "quietest" through wall
system, sound sensitivity is a very subjective issue and impossible
to quantify. None of these things are going to rattle the
windows, but larger machines will generate corresponding fan
sound. They may,or may not be appropriate for interior
walls.
'Can't or don't want to go through the
wall? Remote systems of varying configurations are the
next step. Now you'll pretty much need a licensed mechanical
contractor. With the exception of CellarMate's unique
ductable system, all will need to be charged with refrigerant.
Installation costs just went up dramatically.
CellarMate will need to
located in a well-ventilated environment with an ambient not to
exceed 90 degrees. The duct work shouldn't exceed 25' - the
shorter the better.
Breezaire
offers most proven split system for capacities up 1,000
cubic feet (4,000 BTU's). The condenser should be located
within 100' (subtract 10' for every 90 degree bend in the line set)
in a well-ventilated area with an ambient not routinely and
consistently exceeding ~ 80 degrees. The condenser is not
designed for low ambient operation, nor particularly hostile
environments.
WCI manufacturers
both split air handler systems as well as a ductless split system up
to 13,000 BTU's. Outdoor condensers are available and will
function effectively in the mid-30's or on rooftops in Las
Vegas.
Final
observations:
A bank balance won't change the laws of
physics. Especially for our contractor clients - we won't put
you in the middle of probable or avoidable service issues - we
don't place any equipment into an inappropriate application, no
matter how expensive the project, no matter what the owner's name,
no matter how demanding they may be. We will not tell anyone
what they want to hear for the sake of a credit card #.
There is a very low threshold at which
the mystique of wine storage technology gives way to marketing
hype best suited for rosebeds. Most wine has traveled in the
cargo holds of ships, on the trailers of 18-wheelers, sat on
shipping docks or resides in 72 degree wine shops and
restaurants. It's not plasma.
Certainly a consistent and controlled
environment is important in the long run - otherwise, we'd have real
jobs. But there is nothing exotic about wine storage
equipment, nor is wine jeopardized by nominal, occasional and
gradual variations from "perfect" conditions. Certainly, it's
a bad idea to monkey with controls - all that will be accomplished
is that you'll change the set point, i.e., the storage
temperature. The equipment isn't going to cool any faster -
which would have an adverse impact even if it did.
Food poisoning can be fatal, but when's the
last time anyone "adjusted" their kitchen refrigerator's settings or
hooked up digital displays and alarm systems? Groceries are
lot more perishable than wine. Don't get sold on the hi-tech,
"pristine environment" nonsense. A $10 thermometer,
located in the middle of your enclosure will assure you that a
pretty basic, 'though specialized, piece of refrigeration equipment
is properly functioning.
References to "humidity control" are redundant and
potentially misleading - any HVAC or refrigeration system "controls"
humidity just by the way it functions. No wine
cooling system is going to allow you to "set" the humidity level,
relative to the temperature. They will, on the other hand,
maintain such within the optimum window (50% - 75%), with Mother
Nature's cooperation. For very arid environments, supplemental
moisture may need to be provided - a humidificaton component, a
flower pot full of water or a wet towel.
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