HOW TO BUILD A WINE CELLAR, IN A NUTSHELL ...
(OR A CLOSET, OR A BASEMENT OR A GARAGE.)

Step One: Avoid Cheap Machines With Inferior Service Histories

Steps Two and On ....

You won't find 2 engineers, technicians or doctors in agreement on every issue within their disciplines - certainly, there are divergent opinions among wine storage "experts". We provide the following guidelines as a general starting point for the construction of a proper wine storage enclosure.

As opposed to "right " or "wrong", we will offer these "rules of thumb" as representative of the overwhelming consensus among manufacturers, mechanical engineers and our own 16 years' experience in the construction of wine storage cabinetry and on-site rooms.

At the same time, every application is somewhat unique and our technical staff is always available to discuss the specifics of a given project.

1) Function vs Form:

Proper wine storage requires that esthetics be secondary. For example, advertising which pictures cellars as appropriate to social gatherings, "whisper quiet" cooling systems, cabinetry with improperly insulated, "designer" glass, etc. are misleading. Of course, cellars can be very attractive - but our focus is on effective storage, first and foremost. True cellars - proper storage - requires a "tomb-like" environment. True wine cooling systems are distinct from household refrigeration and traditional HVAC equipment.

In order to avoid "shocking" the wine with fluctuating temperatures, in order to maintain 60 - 70% relative humidity, true wine cooling systems do so very gently, very gradually. Your kitchen refrigerator or central air conditioner is designed to drop the temperature quickly. That's necessary for food preservation - that's necessary to your comfort on a hot August afternoon. It would be very bad for your wine collection over time.

In cooling quickly, a machine essentially evacuates warm air quickly - and with it, the associated moisture. Gentle cooling will allow higher relative humidity levels to be achieved and maintained.

These specialized wine cooling systems (as opposed to traditional refrigeration or HVAC equipment) are not designed to overcome unnecessary traffic through the cellar, nor incandescent lighting, nor 98.6 degree bodies, nor any other heat sources such as appliances.

Temperature aside, each time the door to a cellar is opened, the ambient humidity mixes with the internal levels and the environment becomes unbalanced. (Relative humidity is the function of temperature and absolute humidity.)

Tastings, conversations, the general enjoyment of consumption … should not be conducted in the same space as your collection's storage.

2) Materials:

Next to glass, concrete and similar materials are some of the worst insulators against heat gain/loss. Moreover, such porous media increase humidity exchange, condensate, mold/mildew growth and inhibit the efficient operation of climate control equipment. All interior surfaces of a wine cellar should be properly insulated and include vapor barriers. This includes subterranean applications and temperate climates.

Insulation should be foil-backed, rigid foam. Fiberglas, "pink panther", insulation can eventually absorb whatever trace humidity invades the walls. Ultimately, it will become saturated and deteriorate. At that point, there is decreasing (if any) insulation remaining inside the wall.

The foil backing will provide a series of vapor barriers. Once taped securely into place, Mother Nature's tendency to equalize environments will be effectively stopped. Remember, you cellar should have upwards of 70% relative humidity - more often than not, there will be a significant differential with the surrounding, outside air.

Which side ("cool"/inside - "warm"/outside) should the vapor barrier face? Should it be placed on both sides? These are very good questions. With regard to the latter, the consensus answer is a firm, "NO". Because the odds are that trace humidity will invade the wall (no matter how well you may seal it), blocking both sides of the insulation may trap the moisture, ultimately leading to puddles inside the wall. Allowing the minimal moisture to evaporate in one direction is a much more sensible idea.

On which side should the vapor barrier be placed? (I'd hoped that you'd forgotten that part …) True, "warm goes to cool"; true, in general, "warm" has higher humidity than "cool". Among wine storage folks, much like I.R.S. employees, ask 10 the same question, you'll get 9 different answers. (The 10th will shrug and admit, "I dunno ….")

BUT, if the "cool" air is @ 65% relative humidity and the "warm" air is air-conditioned (dehydrated) and ~15% … then what? Talk to us. Let us refer you to factory techs. Consult a local professional whose judgment you trust. Have them talk to us. Let us refer them to the factory techs. Each application is different and, among all of us, we'll come up with a plan that makes the most sense.

We've been putting vapor barriers on the "cool" side for 16 years. We still live down the street from some of our first clients. They are still our best references - their collections are still intact. On the other hand, some factory specs say the "warm" side - these folks definitely know their business and have been building this specialized equipment for as long as we have been installing it. Ergo ...?

We don't believe the issue is temperature - rather, we believe that the vapor barrier should simply be placed on that side which will routinely face the area of higher humidity. If the object of the game is to prevent Mother Nature from equalizing the environments and invade the wall with moisture, "lay logic" says to inhibit migration at it earliest point.

Moisture-resistant sheetrock ("green board" or whatever they call it in your locale) is certainly appropriate as an interior wall covering. As with any other material, it should be water-proofed. A non-aromatic paint is acceptable. On the other hand, 90% of our cellars utilize a luan mahogany paneling.

A hardwood paneling will not warp or lose its shape. It's inexpensive. It's far less labor intensive than hanging drywall. Many feel that the "natural wood look" is esthetically superior. Speaking from personal experience, any idiot can put it up.

Any material must be sealed, but if the panels are water-proofed and allowed to cure before installation, no latent fumes will remain.

Because any climate controlled cellar must be absolutely airtight (otherwise no cooling system will ever perform effectively), no vapors or smells should be allowed to be trapped - they will have no place to go, but straight through the cork and into the wine. This means, don't use excessive stain, finishes, materials like aromatic cedar, etc.

3) Insulation:

Factory recommended minimums will approximate R11 for interior walls, R20 in flooring and R30 in exterior walls and ceilings. Our standards - on our own projects - are R20 and R30, respectively. Obviously there is a point in conversions and retro-fits where cost efficiency must be weighed against functional inefficiency. The weight given to either is ultimately your call, but we are always here as a sounding board.

Batt or fiberglas insulation (the "Pink Panther" stuff) can absorb trace moisture and lose it's R value. Rigid foam will provide a truer fit around the interior wall structure, will not sag and will not become saturated - obviating any concerns over mold/mildew growth.

4) Which "Brand" of Cooling System?

Driving factors will range from ( most importantly) the physical elements of the application, to esthetics (least importantly). In between are considerations of cost, personal opinion to availability.

Regardless, the promotional verbiage associated with the various lines is just advertising hype. These machines are not interchangeable - there is no "best" - there are several quality lines, given the appropriate circumstance and a well-built enclosure. There are also a couple of "brands" with substandard service histories and warranties.

Regardless of your choice, our extended warranties and brokerage pricing will assure that you receive maximum value from the vendor of your choice.